Beyond the Textbook: Discovering Wines from Armenia
By Reeze Choi
Feb, 2026
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As a candidate in world-class wine competitions and examinations, I often find myself studying extensive textbook knowledge about regions I have not visited, nor wines that I have not had the opportunity to taste firsthand. It often feels like a missed opportunity when I cannot translate the knowledge into personal experiences for my customers. I am genuinely excited whenever I get to taste something new, to immerse myself in fresh experiences, to surprise my friends and customers with discoveries that also spark their curiosity.
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I recently had the opportunity to step into one of the world’s most ancient wine regions - Armenia, through Northern Terroir. My only prior exposure to this intriguing country was through its renowned brandy, mainly produced from indigenous grape varieties such as Voskehat, Kangun, Garan Dmak (Ironically, my first and only experience with Armenian brandy was in Kazakhstan.)
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The discovery of Areni-1 in Vayots Dzor; clay wine fermentation vessels and jars containing Vitis vinifera grape seeds in a cave, shows that Armenia’s winemaking dates back to more than 6,000 years ago. Modern winemaking, however, began in 1991, when Armenia gained independence from the Soviet Union. And today, Armenia is emerging as a "trendy" high-altitude frontier, where prehistoric heritage meets modern precision.
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The Geography of Extremes
Located in southern Transcaucasia, with Turkey to the West and Azerbaijan to the East, and bordered by Georgia, and Iran, Armenia is relatively small compared to its neighbors at 29,743 km²— about the size of Belgium. It sits on the Lesser Caucasus, a 600-km-long volcanic mountain range, and the Armenian Plateau, a mountainous enclave where 70% of terrain is covered by mountains, and 90% above 1,000 meters sea level.
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The country’s high-altitude viticulture is defined by:
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Extreme Continentality:
In summer, especially July and August, temperatures average 35°C; with harsh winters that average -7°C, with lows reaching -25°C.
The Influence of the Seas: Despite its mountainous terrain, the Black Sea to the west and the Caspian Sea to the east act as vital climatic buffers, providing necessary precipitation (550mm annually) and heat regulation.
UV-B Radiation: High altitude means a greater diurnal range and higher UV-B radiation, resulting in a perfect balance between ripeness and acidity in grapes. Stronger UV-B radiation forces grapes to develop thicker skins, resulting in higher concentrations of more flavonoids, anthocyanins, and phenolic compounds, giving Armenian wines richer aromatics and flavours.
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Tavush, the "Green Lungs" of Armenia
Armenia’s wine regions are primarily concentrated in the west and southwest, such as Armavir, Ararat, Aragatsotn, and Vayots Dzor. However, there is a unique region with lush forests that lies entirely among the mountains of Lesser Caucasus —Tavush, the home of Northern Terroir Winery crafting TUS and ZOÉ wines..
Unlike most Armenia’s wine regions, Tavush sits at a relatively lower elevation, ranging from 400 to 1,000 meters above sea level, with rolling hills and higher humidity. This landscape reminds me of Rías Baixas in Spain.
Northern Terroir Winery
The First Vintage being released in 2017 and located in Haghtanak Village (meaning “victory”) in Tavush Province—not to be confused with Haghtanak District in Yerevan, the estate is just a few steps away from the Kartli wine region of Georgia across the Debed River.
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Its winemaker Levon Gharagyozyan, stands out from many winemakers in other non-mainstream wine regions such as Japan and China, who often pursue studies in France or other renowned wine regions. Instead, Levon graduated from Armenian National Agrarian University and gained substantial hands-on experience in local Armenian wineries. By embracing conventional winemaking techniques, Levon crafts wines that embody the pure spirit and philosophy of Armenia, offering a distinctive expression of the region’s unique terroir.
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This boutique winery currently produces approximately 120,000 bottles per year, with a capacity to produce more than 300,000 bottles per year, and is dedicated to cultivating indigenous white grape varieties that thrive in its particular climatic conditions; Lalvari and Banants. In addition, the label design of their bottles is refined and universally accessible, making it easy for international drinkers to appreciate and understand the brand.
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Northern Terroir’s portfolio includes: TUS Classic Dry White Wine, TUS Reserve Dry White Wine, and ZOÉ Sparkling Wine.
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The Tasting
1. ZOÉ Brut Sparkling Wine:
Crafted using the Charmat method, it is a superb choice for everyday enjoyment, whether as an aperitif or for celebratory occasions. Disgorged in 2024, it is a harmonious blend of Lalvari and Banants, with Lalvari imparting vibrant acidity and distinctive aromatics, while Banants contributes structure to the wine. On the nose, ZOÉ offers a vibrant bouquet of citrus, grapefruit and lime peel layered with crisp green apple and pear aromas. Subtle hints of orange blossom, beeswax, and a delicate yeasty character add complexity and charm. The palate is bright and flavorful, with bright acidity and a fine mousse bubble that invigorates and refreshes. The finish is clean and precise, leaving a lingering touch of phenolic bitterness that adds structure and sophistication. This sparkling wine embodies both elegance and approachability, making it a delightful companion for a wide range of moments and palates. This is a sparkling wine I would proudly feature on my wine-by-the-glass list, offering my customers an opportunity to experience something truly unique and out of the ordinary.
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2. TUS Classic Dry White Wine 2024:
A dry white wine so distinctive that I cannot recall ever tasting anything quite like it. Crafted entirely from Lalvari-a local, late-ripening grape variety known for its high acidity and light body, this wine stands out for its subtle yet intriguing character. The aromas are delicate, requiring focused attention to discern their nuances. Notes of citrus peel, apple, and pear mingle with hints of basil, thyme, and green olive. I suspect the wine spends some time on the lees, as evidenced by its gentle yeasty undertone. On the palate, TUS is lean, low in alcohol, and exceptionally refreshing. Beyond its phenolic structure, the wine reveals a savory quality accented by a touch of rocky, smoky minerality. There is nothing "funky" here—just purity, clarity, and a successful expression of uniqueness that sets TUS apart.
3. TUS Reserve Dry White Wine 2022:
Crafted from 100% Lalvari, it is fermented and aged in Armenian oak barrels for more than a year, and the oak imparts a remarkable depth of aroma and complexity to the wine. Compared to the TUS Classic, the Reserve’s bouquet is more mature, with revealing notes of stone fruit and hints of quince, followed by chamomile, honey, beeswax, and a gentle yeasty tone. Oak aging contributes nuances of marzipan, nutty, and vanilla, creating a round and soft texture. Again, those subtle phenolic notes and savory character emerge beautifully. I’ve always felt that oak aging can be a double-edged sword: it adds complexity, yet can sometimes mute certain grape characteristics. Whether you prefer the oak or not, I leave that judgment to you—but these two wines showcase two distinctly different expressions of the same grape.
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My Reflection
What a wonderful experience it is to explore Armenian wine with Northern Terroir! I am truly delighted to have met this passionate team in person. Creating and promoting a non-mainstream wine today is never an easy journey, but with such passion and dedication, anything is possible.
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